Poor economy and acceleration in my 2001 Suburban

jollygreengiant

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Last year I bought a 2001 Suburban with 171,000 miles on it. It runs well at lower speeds and on the interstate at 70 mph but gets poor fuel economy (10 to 15 mpg) and experiences slow and uneven acceleration between 35 and 60 mph. Driving west of Denver on I-70 with my family of six, it had to shift all the way down to second gear to make it over the steep, high pass. I’ve replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel pump (it failed suddenly), the fuel filter, and used Seafoam in the gas tank and intake with little improvement. The mechanic at the Chevy dealer checked the codes and found no apparent problem and blamed the high mileage. Mechanics have suggested it may be a faulty MAP sensor, MAF sensor, fuel pressure regulator, or oxygen sensors. I checked the fuel pressure regulator and it seems to be fine. The sensors are expensive enough that I don’t want to just start changing them without some indication that they are actually faulty. Another mechanic said that the factory exhaust pipes from the catalytic converter on each side of the engine came together into one exhaust pipe with a connector flange but the previous owner had cut the “y” pipe and flange off and installed two separate exhaust pipes going back through glass packs. After I bought the suburban, I had Midas replace the rusted out glass packs with two pipes into a Flowmaster muffler and two pipes coming out. He said the problem is that the engine now does not have enough back pressure at low RPMs and the computer keeps trying to compensate resulting in poor economy, poor acceleration, and poor low end torque. Could that be correct? :confused: If I were confident in that diagnosis, I could probably have Midas reinstall the factory spec “y” pipe and flange in front of the new muffler for not too much.

I have another issue that I don’t think is related but who knows! When I first start up the engine, there are no warning lights lit up and the anti-lock brakes pulse when I start to skid. However, after driving a couple of miles, the ABS and Brakes warning lights come on and the anti-lock brakes no longer pulse when I start to skid. I haven’t worried too much because the brakes continued to work smoothly like it would if it didn’t have the ABS system. However, I’ve read on this forum that the ABS system is linked somehow to the traction control system and it could cause poor acceleration. Also, I also almost skidded through an intersection during a recent snow storm and would have appreciated having the ABS function.

Other than these two issues, I love my new (to me) suburban. :) I would greatly appreciate any help so I can get it fixed and love it even more.
 
Did you look at the EPA ratings for your vehicle? You didnt mention the air filter, have you checked it? I assume the check engine light is off? Have you done a compression test?

2WD 5.3L engine City 13 Combined 14 Highway 16
4WD 5.3l engine City 12 Combined 13 Highway 15

On your second problem, you probably have a bad wheel sensor. A diagnostic tool has to be connected to the vehicle when the warning lights are on to determine which sensor has the issue.
 
***but gets poor fuel economy (10 to 15 mpg) and experiences slow and uneven acceleration between 35 and 60 mph.

I had some of those same issue with my 1994 before the CTS went completely bad and I had to find the problem recently (see my thread below about it running way too rich).

How do your plugs look? What's the tailpipe look like? Does it appear to be black and sooty or nice and white-ish gray? Your CTS might be losing it. I suspect that mine was acting up for the past couple of years or longer. And when it finally went totally bad, it didn't set any code.

You can get a new one at AutoZone for $11.99 or $17.99 (check it out online) depending on whether or not you want to spend a little more for one that's supposedly better (but is it?).

So if you suspect that your Suburban is running a bit too rich, you might want to try a new CTS.

I've now driven my truck quite a little bit since replacing the CTS and it's really gotten its old pep back. So it looks clear to me that the failing CTS was really affecting performance. I no longer see the sluggish performance or other problems I had before replacing the CTS.

See also my posts in Cside's thread if you do decide to replace the CTS.

It's a cheap enough part and easy to replace and it also seems to fail quite often. So if nothing else, changing it might give you a bit of preventative maintainence.
 
Hey, TMax. What are you referring to when you say CTS. I can't find that acronym in the Chilton's manual unless you mean the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I don't think that is bad because the temperature gage seems to be working fine.
 
Hey, TMax. What are you referring to when you say CTS. I can't find that acronym in the Chilton's manual unless you mean the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I don't think that is bad because the temperature gage seems to be working fine.

Didn't I tell you to read my thread?

http://chevyforum.org/chevy-forums/showthread.php?t=29961

Yes, CTS is the Coolant Temperature Sensor. If you had read my thread, you'd know that!!! :mad:

I know it's long and my posts are too long and too boring, but there's good info in there. Including my post where I said exactly what you said here; namely, that I also didn't think my CTS was bad for the same reason you think. That is, that the temperature gauge works fine.

There's a separate sending unit for that. So you have a CTS and also a temperature gauge sending unit. Or at least I do in my '94 Suburban. I think you probably do too.

See my post in Cside's thread about that. Also my post there about my experience in changing the CTS (learn from my mistakes)

Your problem might not be the CTS, but then again it might. If you read my thread, you'll see that I "consulted" with some YouTube videos including one where the guy said it's usually the CTS. And indeed it was in his case.

And also in my case.

So it seems these CTS's frequently go bad. That's why replacing yours might not be a bad idea for 18 bucks. At least then you'll eliminate that as a possible problem. It could be going a bit bad; as I suspect mine was for a long time before it finally went completely bad, forcing me to address the problem.

Good luck and keep us up on your findings. :)

P.S.: You should also have your codes read. AutoZone will do that for you (for free). Your 2001 is "OBD2" and I'm not sure if you can read those yourself, as is the case with my '94, which has OBD1. But AutoZone can and will read your codes. I was told by the guy there that they couldn't read mine because it's too old, but that they can and will read 1996 and newer.
 
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I have a code reader and it shows now codes have been tripped. Yesterday I went ahead and changed the PCV valve and the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor because they didn't cost very much. Now I'll see if it made any difference. The remaining possible sensors are each in the $100 + range so I'm less inclined to start swapping them out. Someone asked about the color of the spark plugs and exhaust pipes. They are both fairly black and sooty rather than grey so I do think that it is generally running too rich. I just don't know what to do about it.:(:(
 
Please post the codes

Yes, please do post the codes. It could be very helpful to others to know the codes given your situation, which we now know is like mine was (running rich).

Also know that you have to clear the codes before performance will be proper even if you've replaced the defective sensor. But please note the codes (and post them) before you clear them.

I should also mention (again) that my plugs were VERY black and sooty (as was my tailpipe) before I replaced the CTS. If you read one of my prior posts in my thread, you'll see that after replacing the CTS and driving and idling the truck very minimually, the plugs were found to have burned themselves VERY clean.
 
I'd go a step further than just pulling codes. Have someone like Autozone scan it for free, It exercises your system and looks deeper then a typical code reader. Did I say it was free?
 
In California autozone will not scan anymore due to a lawsuit. Sucks!
 
Well what about your code reader, what were the codes?
 
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