first nova 1978 have questions

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cnova78

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So I purchased a 1978 Chevy nova and it needs work. So I want to keep it as original as possible so I want to add 22 inch wheels on it but I Dont want to swap out the engine. My question is can the stock handle those type of wheels. Is it worth it to swap out the engine at all. My other question is my generator/ salt light is on but the car runs.

250-cubic-inch six-cylinder engine, my engine
 
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If the wheels are the correct width and backspacing they will fit but it might ride like a truck. Use a voltmeter to determine what output you get from the alternator, should be around 13 + volts.
 
Yes I know about the ride quality I was thinking 40 series if I can tuck within there.as for the alt. I was thinking its a lose ground but I'm going thru the cars electric system bugging it out.I also looked online if a new block was put in the car if it obi2 capable is it possible to run a Chevy obi2 engine it a car this old. Reason asking is aftermarket replacement in dash replacement dash are 1k easy and if the engine is obi2 capable all your dash gages could be on a tablet of some sort
 
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OK thanks I was just wondering .I'm going to keep it original when it comes to the engine .if it can handle those wheels why not. I'm looking for replacement parts for my car and I'm having issues finding engine parts .its a straight 6 v6 250-cubic-inch six-cylinder engine, so do I Google or search on eBay straight 6 or 78 Chevy engine
 
Heres the update All the electric is fine except for two things .when I press the lbrske pedal the drivers blinker lights up and the interior light looks like its on a negative switch what fuse is it under.
 
cnova78 said:
Heres the update All the electric is fine except for two things .when I press the lbrske pedal the drivers blinker lights up and the interior light looks like its on a negative switch what fuse is it under.
Click to expand...

The turn signal indicators are lighting when braking because the 4 way flasher switch is on and the flasher unit in the fuse panel has been removed or is non functioning.

The dome light is on the clk ltr ctsy fuse in the photo. Or in whole words, clock, lighter courtesy fuse.

fusepanel2.jpg
 
Does the car have two because I found a flasher in the dash behind where the radio used to go and I swapped the flasher out and I'm at the point where all of them work but the front signal lights comeing on when I press the brake
 
The flasher by the radio is for the turn signal lights, the one in the upper left of the fuse panel is for the hazard flashers. The hazard flasher switch is on the passenger side of the steering column and when pulled out it is in the off position.

Here is another shot of a Nova fuse panel

fusepanel2-1.jpg


The hazard switch location, this photo is with the knob removed. If this switch is pulled out the front signals should not longer operate with the brake lights.

hazardswitch.jpg
 
So I swapped out that flasher on the fuse box same results. The switch is in the bout position. when I press the brakes its only the front one tht responds like this .so when I turn the head lights on the rear and the lic plate Dont light up. I know this is the easy way out I rather not do it but I could tap into the front lights and but I believe they on a diff fuse rating.


As for the interior light rusted connections on the fuse panel had to pry the old one out and clean connectors and put a new fuse in. I'm going to swap out the door jam switch tho
 
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Has the wiring been altered in the trunk or under the dash? Check the front and rear bulbs, they should have 2 contacts on them and be part number 1157. The bulb socket has 3 wires, one for the park lamp, one for the turn signal (turn and stop in the back use the same wire) and a ground. Front and rear turn signals are on separate wires and the only common point is in the turn signal switch. The socket ground is a tab that contacts the base of the bulb, the tab can break off and when the ground is gone the circuit can do some strange things trying to find a ground path.

bulbsocketground-1.jpg
 
Yes it has been altered I can't upload a pic it says its too big big I wrote what I see the dash looks original
Right center lights
Dark green /light green
Black black



Right right
black black
Brown brown
yellow med green has tape on it

This is shooting a idea in the dark if the dash blinker light is out would this be causing this
 
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The lights closest to the center of the car are back lamps. The outboard lights are the running and stop/turn lamps. Brown is the running lights. Remove the tape and see what it is hiding.
 
The rear right Running light wire hasn't been cut. Its just the rear right signal and back up light .so basically the two bulb harness on the back of the car. The diagram in the book. I have two blacks (grounds) and the green and yellow.
 
here are some photos I just took of a stock 78 rear light harness.

Left side, the black plug is the back up light. Yellow wire is stop/turn

leftsiderearlamps.jpg


Right side, the black plug is the back up light. Green wire is stop turn

rightsiderearlamps.jpg


All of these bulb sockets are to rusty to function and pitted to badly to clean up and reuse. How do yours look? Were the correct bulbs installed?

There are several junction points in the stock rear lamp harness. The brown ones are for the side marker and running lamps, the blacks are grounds. Under the special insulating tape in the photo below is a crimped and soldered connection. These can go bad but usually just cause the affected lamp not to work. The junction points can be easily identified as there is one wire going in and 2 or more coming out.

sidemarkerandgroundsplices.jpg


The main ground for the rear lamp harness is located on the trunk latch support.

harnessgroundconnector.jpg
 
OK on the rear left it looks like that and it goes into a wire loom and from the it comes out and the rear right I have my cut wires .I do have the junction like that so I'm going to pull the whole harness out the loom and go section by section . Could the directional bulb in the dash cause a problem as well because the left one is out
 
The harness is easy to remove. It plugs in by the drivers side trunk hinge. With it unplugged use a test light to check at the connection to make sure the correct voltage is coming from the front. The wire harness runs under the sill plate and under the back seat. I have seen them get damaged from stereo installations.
No the dash indicators generally do not cause any problems.
 
That could be possible the factory 8 track is gone:( I'm going to pull the whole harness and see if it is grounding out some where also when I turn the head lights on the rears don't light up I'm thinking fuse so I'm swap all the fuses out tomorrow. But I believe you are right bad harness
 
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