2000 Chevy Cavalier dies occasionally after driving a while

[RustyChevy]

My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.2L) has died on my 3 times in the last month. It's all been about 30 minutes into the drive on the highway going between 70 and 80 mph. It will be running smoothly and then it will just sputter and die. Electrical components appear to be fine. I try to start it up and it will turn over, but does not have enough fuel to maintain combustion. I replaced my fuel pump relay and my fuel filter the last time it died, but it just died again today. I forgot to listen this last time to see if my fuel pump kicked on. But I was able to start it after about 5 minutes of letting it sit. My engine is not appearing to overheat (my gauges read normal). Could it be my fuel pump? or do fuel pumps usually go out completely and not work intermittently? Would a faulty oil pump cause occasional stalling like this?

The engine runs smoothly, no cylinder misfires or anything. I replaced coils, wires, spark plugs, alternator, up-stream O2 sensor all within the last year. All these seem to be good still.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[zora]

When it doesnt start, do you hear the fuel pump spinning when you go to start it? If not it could be the pump.

 

[Chuzz]

Do you have an automatic with overdrive? If so, it could be a faulty torque converter lock up switch. IF you have it, just unplug it and drive it like that for a while. If the problem doesn't come back then you'll only lose a little bit of mpg if you leave it like that. It's not an expensive part, but is labor expensive if you take it somewhere to have it replaced.

 

[RustyChevy]

Zora - The second time it died (a few weeks ago), I listened for the fuel pump and it didn't kick when I was trying to start it. I let it sit for a few minutes then the fuel pump kicked on and I was able to restart it. At that point, that's when I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump relay, but obviously it didn't fix the problem. However, when it died yesterday, I forgot to listen to see if the fuel pump didn't kick on when I tried to start it.

Chuzz - Yes, I have automatic with overdrive. Where is the torque converter switch located?

I am leaning more towards the fact I need to replace the entire fuel pump. Any other thoughts?

 

[zora]

the torque convertor switch would be suspect if the car died as you came to a stop, you indicated you were at a high speed when it died.

 

[Chuzz]

Well, if you're not hearing the fuel pump come on for a couple of seconds, then you probably need to replace it. Do you often run the car low on gas? If so, that will help cause premature fuel pump failure. They need to stay submerged in the gas in order to run cool. If you regularly run it low on gas, they can get hot and die.

 

[Jeff Jankiewicz]

sounds like the pump is done. you will have to drop the gas tank in order to replace it. I have replaced a few by just getting a pump at autozone, then dropping the tank, removing pump assembly and just replacing the pump. Beats going to the dealer for an expensive assembly. pump cost me 100 bucks..better than 300 bucks for the assembly. if the bolts are rusted...take your time..spray with wd40 or the like...back bolt out a little..tighten...back out more..tighten a little........this will hopefully clear the threads of rust so bolt will not snap. good luck! hope this helps

 

[Chuzz]

Not sure where the tc lockup is on your car, but on my Olds, it was on the drivers side of the engine on top of the transmission near the firewall. BUT, it does sound more like the fuel pump. And not to start a pissing contest, but, WD 40 is not a rust eater or lubricant. It's a water displacement formula, thus the name. The best rust eater I've ever found is called Kroil. But if you can't find that, PB Blaster is another good one. The main thing is you get a rust penetrating spray on any and all rusted nuts or bolts. Let them soak for 24 hours if you have the time.