Hi, i have a 1987 chevy silverado 4x4,with a 350 fuel injection engine. Last time it was running was when i was driving and it was acting like it had no gas and wanted to start back up,but it was filled with gas. It died a lot befor,but now it wont even start up. I am trying to restore it and i need to find the problem.Only thing i can think it may be is the fuel pump,relay,or electric modulator.(what do i need to fix and how can i test anything to found out the problem.) If you have an answere it would help a lot.
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1987 chevy silverado trouble.?
- Thread starter Jordan
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me i tell you it's me
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I would check for a vacuum leak (all vacuum hoses), remove the air cleaner assembly on the top and wipe out the throttle body with a rag and some carb cleaner, and check for spark. If you remove a spark plug from the engine, and hold it with (INSULATED) pliers, close to something metal to ground it, have someone turn the key and see if you have spark. Also check the spark plugs to see if they're dirty and worn - this would cause it to fill with gas because it's not burning the gas that gets pumped into the engine. That would be the first thing I would check. Also, if you are getting no spark at all, it could be your ignition coil, or distributor cap or rotor that is worn. These are cheap items, and if it's been a while, would be a good idea to do them. I am guessing it's going to be a spark problem, but if it turns out to be fuel, you can check the pump by doing this: turn the key to "on", but don't start it, and listen for that buzz sound of the fuel pump coming from the tank. If you hear that, it's working. If you don't, check the fuse (it's under the hood, on the passenger side, there's a black plastic cover with 3 plastic screws - 2 at the top and 1 on the bottom - it's the only fuse under that cover, you have to take this plastic fuse holder out of it's place to remove it.) If the pump doesn't work and the fuse is good, check the relay - it's right there under that cover as well. Both of these are cheap items.
Not sure how many miles are on it, the engine could be a bit worn, but I doubt it would prevent it from starting at all. May be a good time to check the compression in all 8 cylinders, just for your personal knowledge. If you don't already have one, pick up a Haynes manual for the truck -- they come in handy for specs, and repair procedures, maintenance schedules, etc. These motors are great - my 94 (same engine) has 273,000 miles in a 2500 truck, pulls a 5th wheel trailer, and runs great. Keep em up and they last. One last thing to check, would be the egr valve. It's on the passenger side of the intake manifold, and they have a tendency to clog up with carbon. You can remove it and clean out that area, and it should be fine. They recommend that you don't clean an egr valve but I have done it many times and have had good luck with it, and they're like $100, so I'd try that first if it's dirty. Good luck, hope that helps.
Not sure how many miles are on it, the engine could be a bit worn, but I doubt it would prevent it from starting at all. May be a good time to check the compression in all 8 cylinders, just for your personal knowledge. If you don't already have one, pick up a Haynes manual for the truck -- they come in handy for specs, and repair procedures, maintenance schedules, etc. These motors are great - my 94 (same engine) has 273,000 miles in a 2500 truck, pulls a 5th wheel trailer, and runs great. Keep em up and they last. One last thing to check, would be the egr valve. It's on the passenger side of the intake manifold, and they have a tendency to clog up with carbon. You can remove it and clean out that area, and it should be fine. They recommend that you don't clean an egr valve but I have done it many times and have had good luck with it, and they're like $100, so I'd try that first if it's dirty. Good luck, hope that helps.