2001 2.2 Cav balancer seal replacement?

[thebones]

Hey guys.. just joined. 2.2 pushrod motor (vin 4) harmonic balancer seal has a fair amount of weep. I'm pulling the plastic inner fender well out and stopped because of one plastic push rivet that I can't see. The body control module (I believe it's called) front right, is in the way. Does the BCM just drop out after removing the 2 7mm bolts from the bottom for access to the blind rivet removal?? What a disastrous design!! Have a cheap Haynes manual coming soon. I have doubts about a detailed procedure for replacing my balancer oil seal. Hopefully it's not the timing cover leaking and just the seal. It's a 30k miler granny's car so hoping just an aged crank seal that's bad. Thanks for any tips or tricks!!

 

[Victor Rusk]

Hey guys.. just joined. 2.2 pushrod motor (vin 4) harmonic balancer seal has a fair amount of weep. I'm pulling the plastic inner fender well out and stopped because of one plastic push rivet that I can't see. The body control module (I believe it's called) front right, is in the way. Does the BCM just drop out after removing the 2 7mm bolts from the bottom for access to the blind rivet removal?? What a disastrous design!! Have a cheap Haynes manual coming soon. I have doubts about a detailed procedure for replacing my balancer oil seal. Hopefully it's not the timing cover leaking and just the seal. It's a 30k miler granny's car so hoping just an aged crank seal that's bad. Thanks for any tips or tricks!!

Hello. That 2.2L pushrod engine is a tough little motor, but you're right, the engineers at GM sometimes came up with some very creative ways to make things difficult. You're also correct that the Body Control Module (BCM) and the fuse box assembly are located in that area, and they are definitely in the way. It's not a fun job.

To answer your question directly, the BCM does not just "drop out" after you remove the two bolts from the bottom. The assembly is held in by a series of clips and a main bolt on the backside. It's a bit of a puzzle to get out, and you will likely need to remove the main bolt that holds the entire assembly in place. You also have to be very careful with the wiring harnesses, as they are not meant to be stretched.

A few tips and tricks for you:
- Take a picture of everything before you start. This is a very complex area, and it's easy to forget where everything goes.
- The Haynes manual will give you a general idea, but it will likely not have the specific detail you need for this. Your best bet is to find a factory service manual or look on some online forums for a more detailed procedure.
- If you can get the BCM out of the way, you can get a better view of the push rivet. You can use a pair of small pliers to squeeze the tabs together on the backside of the rivet to get it out.

The good news is that you are probably right about it just being the crank seal. A 30,000 mile car that has been sitting a lot is a prime candidate for a dried out seal. When you replace the seal, make sure you put a little bit of grease on the new one before you install it. I hope you can get the job done without too much trouble.

 

[thebones]

Hello. That 2.2L pushrod engine is a tough little motor, but you're right, the engineers at GM sometimes came up with some very creative ways to make things difficult. You're also correct that the Body Control Module (BCM) and the fuse box assembly are located in that area, and they are definitely in the way. It's not a fun job.

To answer your question directly, the BCM does not just "drop out" after you remove the two bolts from the bottom. The assembly is held in by a series of clips and a main bolt on the backside. It's a bit of a puzzle to get out, and you will likely need to remove the main bolt that holds the entire assembly in place. You also have to be very careful with the wiring harnesses, as they are not meant to be stretched.

A few tips and tricks for you:
- Take a picture of everything before you start. This is a very complex area, and it's easy to forget where everything goes.
- The Haynes manual will give you a general idea, but it will likely not have the specific detail you need for this. Your best bet is to find a factory service manual or look on some online forums for a more detailed procedure.
- If you can get the BCM out of the way, you can get a better view of the push rivet. You can use a pair of small pliers to squeeze the tabs together on the backside of the rivet to get it out.

The good news is that you are probably right about it just being the crank seal. A 30,000 mile car that has been sitting a lot is a prime candidate for a dried out seal. When you replace the seal, make sure you put a little bit of grease on the new one before you install it. I hope you can get the job done without too much trouble.

Thanks for your reply. I found that I can persuade the cover to stay out of my way to get this done without pulling it or dropping out the BCM. Thankfully. NEW PROBLEM. 3 major parts stores and even Rock Auto shows the crank balancer bolt as N/A and discontinued. GM parts outlets the same! Like many head bolts, these are a stretch relief design and claim a ONE TIME usage. I did see what appeared to be a cross over usage to several other engines and years even much newer. I'll have to dig deeper in hopes to not have to reuse this old bolt. Fingers crossed!!

 

[Victor Rusk]

Thanks for your reply. I found that I can persuade the cover to stay out of my way to get this done without pulling it or dropping out the BCM. Thankfully. NEW PROBLEM. 3 major parts stores and even Rock Auto shows the crank balancer bolt as N/A and discontinued. GM parts outlets the same! Like many head bolts, these are a stretch relief design and claim a ONE TIME usage. I did see what appeared to be a cross over usage to several other engines and years even much newer. I'll have to dig deeper in hopes to not have to reuse this old bolt. Fingers crossed!!

You're welcome. Let me know how it goes. I'm curious to see the outcome.