Bad vibrations

Ok so ran into a little issue with checking timing.

I cant see any numbers on the harmonic balancer, or the engine all there is a jagged edge piece of medal behind it that has no numbers. both have been painted orange, and I cant see it anyways because the power steering pump is on the motor block the view to it.

How can I figure out the timing without seeing those? also what is the timing light I would need to do it. I found some online that said they would work but they are expensive hoping to get something cheapter.


additional info on specs.

Ignition box is a 6al
distributer is a MSD pro billet part number 85551
manifold is a victor jr. 2975 rated for 3500-8000 rpms.
 
This maybe some what off topic of your problem but why would anybody put a manifold designed to operate best at 3500 to 8000 rpm and then put on a 600 CFM carb, dont expect you to answer that but that doesnt make sense. That engine would really wake up with a 750 CFM carb and unless you have very large numerical rear gears, 4:11 for instance, a more streetable intake manifold.
The balancer wont have numbers if they painted it. There should be a line/indentation on the balancer and typically you take some white paint and let the paint cover that line and wipe excess off the outer surface. The jagged edge piece should have numbers or lines on it, try some laquer thinner to remove the paint.
This light may be something to look into, it is a basic light with no dial back feature.

http://www.sears.com/equus-products...p-00914791000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4
 
zora said:
This maybe some what off topic of your problem but why would anybody put a manifold designed to operate best at 3500 to 8000 rpm and then put on a 600 CFM carb, dont expect you to answer that but that doesnt make sense. That engine would really wake up with a 750 CFM carb and unless you have very large numerical rear gears, 4:11 for instance, a more streetable intake manifold.
The balancer wont have numbers if they painted it. There should be a line/indentation on the balancer and typically you take some white paint and let the paint cover that line and wipe excess off the outer surface. The jagged edge piece should have numbers or lines on it, try some laquer thinner to remove the paint.
This light may be something to look into, it is a basic light with no dial back feature.

http://www.sears.com/equus-products...p-00914791000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4
Click to expand...

the previous owner said he put the 600 on there to conserve fuel. I was leaning towards a Edelbrock 800cfm carb due to pricing. I checked the U joints today and the pinion bearing bolt seems to be as tight as it should be.

Should all four parts of the U joints at the rear end have clamps? the 2 sides that connect to the driveshaft had them but the 2 parts that touch the rear end did not. so only 2 of the 4 sides has clamps.


What type of difference should I expect to see going from 600 to a 750 or 800

I am a little worried about hiting the 8000 rpm range until I can find out the specs of the internals Ive been treating 6500 as the redline for now since most 383 kits seem to say that's the recommended with the basic parts without upgraded pistons.
 
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I'm unclear what you mean by clamps on the rear U joint can you post a picture. The U joint should have 2 U bolts or hard metal pieces holding it to the driveshaft and another two holding it to the rear end pinion yoke. If they are missing you may have found your vibration. Holley and other sites have CFM calculators but I think the most you would want to go is 750 CFM. Definitely stick with the 6,500 RPM figure for safety.
 
zora said:
I'm unclear what you mean by clamps on the rear U joint can you post a picture. The U joint should have 2 U bolts or hard metal pieces holding it to the driveshaft and another two holding it to the rear end pinion yoke. If they are missing you may have found your vibration. Holley and other sites have CFM calculators but I think the most you would want to go is 750 CFM. Definitely stick with the 6,500 RPM figure for safety.
Click to expand...

http://www.heartbeatcity.net/ebayphotos/trn-1096.jpg

im talking about the black clips on that picture
 
found a new recommendation on the car from the last time it was took to the repair shop.

Complete rewire I don't think this is a big deal though as everything is working fine right now.

replace bushings in front end
new front suspension
replace or turn front rotors.
replace all body bushings
replace rear spring hangers and bushings
narrower brake pedal.

Im wondering if the rear spring hangers and bushings might be the problem hear because the more I think about it the vibration like it starts from the passenger rear
 
The clips would appear to be there to prevent the end caps of the U joint from coming off but if the clamp that holds them to the rear end yoke are present that shouldnt be an issue. In a previous post I thought you said the vibration goes away when you drop the trani into neutral when doing the 30 to 50 mph, that would mean it has nothing to do with the rear suspension or tires.
 
zora said:
The clips would appear to be there to prevent the end caps of the U joint from coming off but if the clamp that holds them to the rear end yoke are present that shouldnt be an issue. In a previous post I thought you said the vibration goes away when you drop the trani into neutral when doing the 30 to 50 mph, that would mean it has nothing to do with the rear suspension or tires.
Click to expand...

I talked to the guy who built the engine, hes leaning towards either a bad harmonic balancer, or an out of balance drive shaft, but he wants to drive it first. Said he would drive and diagnose it for free. He remembered the car and it didn't do it when he put the motor in so that's why hes leaning towards the harmonic balancer. In the paper work he had, it said the owner ordered the cheapest one he could get because he was short on being able to pay the bill for the work and really with the build it should have had a better balancer.

he said it probably needs a new transmission mount now too since it was not replaced when they did the build.
 
OK, keep us posted on how things go.
 
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