2010 Cobalt LT - Cruise Control, Radio, Power Mirrors, 1 window all not working! Should I buy it -- YES or NO??

Flyinirish33

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SHOULD I BUY IT --- YES or NO??? . . . . .Just test drove a 2010 Chevy Cobalt LT with only 119k original miles. Seller is private party (2nd owner). Automatic, smooth ride on side streets and highway, no issues with engine - esp. at top speeds. Most all basic features work fine. Nice looking car.

P.S. I'm a former Navy engine mechanic and know my way around most used vehicles but I almost always still have any used vehicles inspected by mechanic before buying.

NOTE: Ran a full vehicle check and report shows "auction announced as unibody damage" from back in 9/2011 but I'm not overly worried. Doubt there are any lasting effects of that damage now (original owner was a rental car company). No other glaring problems. Clean title.

ISSUES (wondering if they're all related to some electrical and/or fuse issue?)

1. Cruise control not working
("On/Off" button lights up but "Res+" & Set -" buttons don't function. Both the "Driver Information Center(DIC)" info button and "Reset" button directly under these work)

2. Controls for outside power mirrors don't work

3. Radio doesn't turn on

4. Rear (driver's side) power window doesn't go down

5. Wire attaching antenna inside trunk looks rusted at end (doesn't attach to antenna)

6. Tire pressure monitor light is on
(supposed to show actual tire pressure #'s in the DIC instrument panel)
 

zora

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How can anybody tell you whether to buy it or not without knowing how much you are going to buy it for?
Look at KBB.COM and NADA.COM for the value of the car and then add a guesstimate on what it's going to cost you to fix it.
 

Flyinirish33

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How can anybody tell you whether to buy it or not without knowing how much you are going to buy it for?
Look at KBB.COM and NADA.COM for the value of the car and then add a guesstimate on what it's going to cost you to fix it.
Well, sale price isn't really a factor at the moment because we're negotiating based on how much work would need to be done by me if I bought it. Seller wants $2600 but says he's flexible.

What I'm trying to determine is whether or not the known issues aren't so problematic that I can't fix them myself with a reasonable amount of time and money investment (and time = money too). If I have to pay a mechanic to do any of the work (esp. wiring issues, which isn't my forte), then it may not be financially worth it to buy it.
 

zora

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1. Cruise control, fuse, brake light switch, other cause requiring testing.
2. Mirror, switch failure, mirror motor failure, broken wires.
3. Blown fuse, broken wire, internal problem.
4. Motor failure, switch failure, broken wire.
5. Splice in antenna cable
6. Check tire pressure, replace sensors.
 
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