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Chevy Forum: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question
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  #21  
Old 07-14-2017, 06:49 PM
eliminator eliminator is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

thats says main control valve body? wasn't planning on pulling the valve body, there seems to be no outer side pan gasket listed?
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2017, 05:45 PM
eliminator eliminator is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

does anyone know if the trans solenoids are the same for the 4T40-E and 4T65-E. I am finding kits on the internet with all the solenoids and they say they fit my car (2000 z24) but the discription says 4T65-E and fits 2000 z24?
isn't the trans a 4T40-E in a 2000 z24?
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2017, 08:49 PM
zora zora is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

post #20 gives you a link where you can check that
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  #24  
Old 07-25-2017, 09:50 PM
eliminator eliminator is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

OK, here's an up date for those who may care? I determined I needed the TCC solenoid after previous Ohm testing but decided to replace all 4 of the accessible solenoids while I was in there as i dont want to do it again. so I ordered the pan gaskets (2) bottom & side as well as a new filter the 1-2 ,2-3, the TCC and the fluid control solenoid and a new axle seal from a trans shop on line. I was pleased when the solenoids all came and were AC delco. I am an industrial mechanic by trade & have been building,restoring & racing vintage race cars for 30 years. I have to tell you this job SUCKED, this was my first experience with a trans axle set up. nothing went as planned or as i was told it would go. i pretty much had to drop the front sub frame carrage out (all but one bolt backed out 75% on the passenger side) on top of dropping the engine down to get the side pan to clear with out hitting the old solenoids or wiring. what a cluster F***K, give me a flat head V8 to rebuild any day of the week over this mess.
in the end I hope I fixed the problem, the car seems to run better than before (so says my wife & daughter) if the code comes up again I will have to look to the harness or PCM, hoping I dont have to do that stuff either.
thanks for all the input from the members here, being a novice to this type of set up really puts me at a disadvantage so this site helps out immensely
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  #25  
Old 07-26-2017, 09:11 AM
zora zora is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

thanks for the update and hope you have the problem solved. I too prefer a old style rear wheel drive set up any day in a full frame car.
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  #26  
Old 07-26-2017, 11:32 AM
eliminator eliminator is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

If I had the patience I should have video'd the fix from start to finish. I could not find one video on the internet of a cavalier z24 or a 4T40e side cover removal/fix. all the videos I found were for other cars (like impala's) that have different under sub frame arrangements.
could have been help full to someone else had I remembered, hind site is 20/20! I did click off a couple pictures
In a nut shell here is what I did:
- jacked the car onto stands about 15"high off the floor and leveled it
- removed the neg battery ground wire
-removed the transmission solenoid wire harness from the side of the trans as well as the 2 connectors on the top at the trans position/neutral safety switch)
-removed the throttle body cover and rubber intake hose from air box
- removed both front tires (and put under the car for safety)
-removed the abs sensor & wire from the lower a arm
-removed the plastic splash sheilds from the wheel well
- dropped the trnasmission bottom pan to drain fluid
- clean pan, installed a new trans filter & gasket and re-installed pan
-supported the engine/trans with a jack with a 3/4" pc of plywood under pan
-with the engine/trans weight held by jack I removed the under carrage bolts (6 totla) on the drivers side ,either side of exhaust tunnel & far lower bolt on passenger side (5 bolts). I backed off the upper bolt above the passenger side drive axle 3/4's the way out and left it so the frme would hang on it.
- removed the front sheet metal brace that connect the drivers side under carrage to the front frame of the car (2 bolts)
-remove the front brake caliper and rotor
-removed the steering arm from the lower a arm
- un-bolted the lower a arm from the spindle
- un bolted the upper strut bolt & nuts (3) but leave loose to hold strut
- removed spindle/front strut assembly from lower frame a-arm
- popped axle out of side case with a pry bar
- supported strut/spindle & removed loose nuts on top then removed assembly (I removed the strut/spindle & axle as one unit but later dis assembled the 3 pcs when I reinstalled as it was easier & lighter)
-hang brake caliper from one of the bolt holes up in the strut tower
- removed the drivers side trans axle mount bolts in the upper wheel well, they are recessed in two pocket holes and 2 smaller ones are exposed directly underneath in the sheet metal.
-lower the engine/trans a little to gain access tot he other 4 trans axle mount bolts that hold the mount to the side pan. removed mount.
by this time the trans axle should be supported by the jack and the lower frame should be hanging away from the body about 3-4".
lower the trans axle to gain more access to the side pan bolts, remove all side pan bolts. the top 3 bolts must be removed with a wrench with the back one being the hardest as it is next to the neutral safty/shift position modual (but it does come out).
- gently pry off the side cover, it has 2 alignment dowel pins that in opposite corners (top right & bottom left) so you will need to work them out of the case before its free. you may also need to wire tie a large wire harness connector that is under the battery and in front of the side cover, up and out of the way as it takes up needed space for the cover to clear the frame.
- once cover is loose you will need to lower the trans axle to find the "sweet spot" where you will be able to pull the pan back far enough to clear the valve body,solenoids & wiring as well as not hit the car body/frame. once you find that spot you will be able to rotate the cover to the left counter clockwise, and feed the larger left side down past the lower trans cooler lines. it is very tight but it will go with out removing any more lines, you will need to push down on the lower frame to gain another inch or so as it is hanging. you can also move the trans axle a little 'side to side" by rolling your jack side to side, it helps.
*be careful not to hit any of the existing wiring harness or solenoids inside the trans with the inside of case while working it out. I hit one of my solenoids and broke the corner off of it (lucky I already decided to replace it & had one)
-removed and replace needed solenoids inspect wiring for any damage
-clean outer side cover & replace gaskets (2)
- remove & replace outer axle seal in side cover
- re-install the side cover taking car not to damage the new solenoids or wiring
- once in place on the dowel pins start all the side cover bolts. use a rubber mallet or your fist to bump the cover on the pins as even and parallel as possible before starting to tighten bolts. as you tighten bolts do so in a stagger pattern and do it evenly so the case goes on even and you dont crack the side cover by binding it (it's cast aluminum). I ran them all in snug and made sure the case was flat all the way around then used a wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet & socket (w/no extension) and hand tightened the bolts about a 1/4 turn more than snug (its a molded steel gasket) so it has to have a little crush I could not find a torque spec but I'm sure there is one, my side cover never leaked later so I guess it was tight enough.
- re install the trans axle mount onto the side cover
-jack the trans axle up to match the holes in the body (4) reinstall those bolts
-engine should be supported by the body now so you can remove the jack (or leave it)
*as mentioned above I decided to break down the strut,spindle & axle assembly to make it easier to reinstall. I removed axle nut and pulled the axle out from spindle,un-bolt the spindle from the lower strut (2 bolts)
- jacked the lower sub frame back up against the frame and re-installed bolts by hand, make sure the steering knuckle dust boot is back on you steering rack as it will pop off when the lower under carrage is lowered during the removal process, with the dust boot in place on the steering rack snug up the under carrage bolts then tighten them ( I used an impact gun).
-reinstalled the axle shaft into the side cover
-reinstalled the strut/shock assembly leave the nuts loose to move it around
-reinstalled the spindle onto the axle splines & the lower a-arm tie rod end.
- line up the lower strut rod bolt hole to the spindle lower hole and insert bolt then pivot the spindle back into place to line up the top hole.
-replace & torque axle/spindle nut + tighten all other nuts and bolts
-replace the rotor & brake caliper assembly.

now just finish replacing all the other stuff you took off (plastics,front frame supports,wiring etc) and follow the procedures for filling the 4T40E trans with fluid.
this took me 7 hours taking my time & taking brakes. I used basic metric & standard hand tools, and air impact gun a cordless impact , jacks stands and a jack (my garage is to small for a lift but that would have made it much easier and faster).
this was new to me doing this trans axle repair so someone that is more familiar may be able to do it much faster than I did. I hope that helps someone else
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  #27  
Old 08-10-2017, 09:20 PM
eliminator eliminator is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

ok here's my new up-date:
2 weeks ago I did all the solenoids in my daughters trans, she said its been running better than it ever has before. tonight she comes home and says the check engine light & track off light has come on while driving. I scan the computer and get P758 & P1860 again.
OK, I know all the solenoids are new and the wiring inside the trans was ok so now I have to look on the outside of the trans or to the PCM. the wife says lets just put a new harness in it, I have no problem with that as someone has already hacked into the existing harness that connects to the trans?
to rule out the trans wiring harness I believe I would need to replace the short harness that goes from the top side trans solenoid connection point and up to the neutral safety/shift position switch on the top back side of the trans. as well as the harness running across the bottom of the radiator support to the pcm.
if that is correct does anyone know the part numbers for each of those harness's or where I can find them? I'm not going to dick around with 17 year old wiring. hope I can figure this out before I decide to use this car for target practice!!!
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  #28  
Old 08-11-2017, 10:46 AM
zora zora is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

part of the harness is in this link and the rest you can find within transmission or electrical section

http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/sho...String=harness
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  #29  
Old 08-12-2017, 04:35 PM
eliminator eliminator is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

thanks, Zora, do you or any other member know id anything else is fed off of the ERL fuse besides the trans solenoids? I am still trying to figure out if that is part of my problem.
when we got the car someone previously put a 20amp fuse in the ERL fuse spot in the fuse box and then cut into the pink wire just off the trans block connector and installed an in-line fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse, so I deduct that they wanted to feed more amps from the fuse panel but then knock it back down to the proper 10 amps before entering the trans to the solenoids.neither was blown but not being an electrical guru or owning the schematics for the car I dont know what else the ERL fuse feeds if any. I also dont know if the pink wire in the harness can handle 20 amps if it was sized for 10?
any people with electrical in site please chime in, maybe thats my problem or part of it.
I recheck the visible harness today for signs of breaks or burns and see none I also recheck the ground post on the block. for what ever reason there must be a ground fault in the wireing or the pcm or from the erl fuse???
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  #30  
Old 08-12-2017, 05:22 PM
zora zora is offline
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Default Re: 2000 z24 shift solenoid problem-question

if you mean the fuse marked ERLS, engine relays, in the instrument panel fuse box that sounds like multiple circuits. The maxium draw the transmission circuit could have is the 10 amps. Other circuits could draw up to 20 amps providing the wires didnt melt first. Can you find a Hanes or Chilton manual that has the wiring diagram, some libaries carry them.
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